Faille is a type of cloth with flat ribs, often made in silk. It has a softer texture than grosgrain, with heavier and wider cords or ribs. Weft yarns are heavier than warp, and it is manufactured in plain weaving. It was especially popular in the 19th century.
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Material
editFaille was primarily made with silk, variations with cotton and wool were also there. A French silk variant was called ''Faille Francaise.''[1][2] The similar grosgrain has been described as a "firm, stiff, closely woven, corded fabric. The cords are heavier and closer than those in poplin, more round than those in faille."[3]
Variations
editFaille fabric is characterized by its prominent rib and is manufactured by employing fine filament yarns in the warp and heavy spun yarns in the filling. Typically, it is a heavyweight fabric, although lighter weight variations of faille, known as tissue failles.[4]
Use
editFaille was a fabric with lower luster, better drape and feel in comparison to counterparts like Grosgrain. It was used in ladies' dresses, suits and spring coats.[1] Tissue faille was once acknowledged as a trademark fabric and widely utilized in the creation of blouses.[5]
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ a b Tortora, Phyllis G.; Johnson, Ingrid (2013-09-17). The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles. A&C Black. p. 221. ISBN 978-1-60901-535-0.
- ^ Co, Montgomery Ward &; Ward, Montgomery (1969-08-01). Montgomery Ward Catalogue of 1895. Courier Corporation. p. 11. ISBN 978-0-486-22377-3.
- ^ Montgomery, Florence M. (1984). Textiles in America 1650-1870 : a dictionary based on original documents, prints and paintings, commercial records, American merchants' papers, shopkeepers' advertisements, and pattern books with original swatches of cloth. New York; London: Norton. ISBN 978-0-393-01703-8.
- ^ Tortora, Phyllis G.; Collier, Billie J. (1997). Understanding textiles. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Merrill. p. 274. ISBN 978-0-13-439225-7.
- ^ Fairchild's dictionary of textiles. New York: Fairchild Publications. 1959. p. 559.