Wikipedia

Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner is a line of sports watches designed for diving and manufactured by Rolex, resistant to water and corrosion.[1] The first Submariner was introduced to the public in 1954 at the Basel Watch Fair.[2] It was the first watch to be waterproof up to 100 metres (330 ft).[3] The Rolex Submariner is considered "a classic among wristwatches",[1] manufactured by one of the world's most widely recognized luxury brands.[4][5][6][7] Due to its huge popularity, there are many homage watches by well-established watchmakers, as well as illegal counterfeits. The Rolex Submariner is part of Rolex's Professional line.[8]

Rolex Submariner
Rolex Submariner-Date ref.16610, with a water resistance of 300 meters (1000 feet). Model 16610 was produced from 1987 to 2010.
TypeAutomatic
DisplayAnalogue
Introduced1953

Today, the Submariner and Submariner Date models are equipped with Rolex Calibres 3230 and 3235, respectively, and feature luminescent hour markers, a unidirectional rotatable bezel with Cerachrom ceramic insert, and a solid-link Oyster bracelet. The models underwater diving depth rating is 300 metres (1,000 ft).[9]

Early models

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The Submariner model went into production in 1953 and was showcased at the Basel Watch Fair in 1954. This first Submariner's assigned case reference number was either 6204 or 6205. It is unclear which model came first; in any event, the two watches are nearly identical.[10] Neither the distinctive "cathedral" or "Mercedes" hands are now so strongly associated with the Submariner line. Rather, both of these early submariners have straight "pencil" style hands.

Both the 6204 and 6205 were fitted with the A260 movement. Neither model displayed a depth rating on the dial. The 6204 was originally rated to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet), but by 1954, Rolex certified the watch as waterproof to 200 meters (660 feet) in the accompanying catalog. The 6205 was depth rated to 100 meters (330 feet).[11]

Some 6204 models have the Submariner logo printed below the center pinion, while others have the logo blacked out. Few, if any, of the 6205 watches bear the name "Submariner" on the dial, a major distinction of modern Submariners. It is believed that there were unexpected trademark issues connected with the name "Submariner" at the time the 6204 and 6205 were released, accounting for the inconsistent use of the Submariner mark on these early Submariners. Trademark irregularities notwithstanding, both the 6204 and 6205 are designated Submariner models in Rolex product literature.

 
The back of pre-2008 stainless steel Submariner, with original Rolex green sticker removed

In 1954, Rolex also produced a small number of ref. 6200 Submariners. This was the first Submariner (although not the first Rolex) to make use of the Mercedes hand set,[12] a feature of all subsequent Submariners. The 6200 also featured an oversized winding crown compared to the 6204 and 6205 models.[13] Within a few years, Rolex revised its Submariner line, producing the 6536 (small crown) and 6538 (oversized crown) models. These watches had "improved" movements (the cal. 1030), including a chronometer version in some 6536 models (designated 6536/1), the now-familiar Mercedes hands, and the Submariner logo and depth rating printed on the dial.

By the early 1960s, these models had given way to the 5508 (small crown) and 5510 (large crown) models. All of these early Submariners used either gilt (6200, 6204, 6205) or gilt/silver gilt (6536, 6538) printing on glossy black dials.[14] Radium paint was used for the luminous indices.[15][16]

The next wave of Submariners, the 5512 (chronometer version) and 5513 (non-chronometer), marked a significant change in the appearance of the popular Rolex design. "Shoulders" were added to the case's crown side to protect the winding/setting mechanism. In early watches—until 1964, these shoulders were pyramid-shaped and ended in points. Later watches were manufactured with rounded shoulders. The 5512 and 5513 were both fitted with the oversized crown, which thereafter became a standard feature of the Submariner line. In the early 1960s, Rolex discontinued the use of radium paint for the luminous indices, switching to safer tritium-infused paint.

 
A Submariner without date function

In 1965–1966, Rolex discontinued using gilt/silver gilt dials on the Submariner watches, switching to white printing. A final important change came with the introduction of the 1680 model in the late 1960s: the 1680 was the first Submariner to be equipped with a date function,[17] marking the completion of the transition of the Submariner line from specialist no-frills utilitarian tool watch for scuba divers to mass market fashion accessory. While many professional and military divers used—and continue to use—Submariners in the most demanding underwater environments, by the late 1960s, the watch had undeniably become a mass-market product as well.

Later models

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Current Rolex "Glidelock" micro adjustment deployant clasp

Throughout the next 40 years, the Submariner was updated with improved water resistance, new movements, and numerous small cosmetic changes.[18] In 2003, Rolex celebrated the Submariner's 50th anniversary by launching the Rolex Submariner-Date anniversary edition (16610 LV), with distinguishing features such as the green bezel and Maxi dial; its production ended in 2010 with the final watches being issued with the new "random" serial number.[19]

A new Submariner-Date, model 116613 (not to be confused with model 16613), based on the "Super Case" used in the GMT Master II, was presented at the 2008 Basel show. It featured heavier lugs and crown guards, a Cerachrom ceramic bezel, and a quick-adjust function "Glidelock" clasp. The first Submariner-Date models offered were a yellow gold with a blue face and bezel and a new white gold with a blue face and bezel. The stainless steel case model was presented at the 2010 Basel show. Its reference is 116610. An anti-reflective coating was applied to the inner side of the sapphire crystal.[20][21] The steel 14060M did not have these modifications.

At the 2012 BaselWorld watch show, an updated steel Submariner ref 114060 was introduced. It replaced the 14060M, with the newer "Super Case" with wider lug end shoulders, enlarged crown guards, enlarged "Chromalight" hour markers and broader hands for increased visibility, ceramic bezel inlay, blue Parachrom hairspring and bracelet with solely solid links featuring ceramic axle sleeves to prevent premature wear or bracelet stretch and a "Glidelock" extension system allowing for up to 20.0 mm (0.79 in) of total adjustment in 2.0 mm (0.079 in) increments without the use of any tools.[22]

The Rolex Submariner watch case has a diameter of 40.0 mm (1.57 in) and a thickness of 13.0 mm (0.51 in) (crystal thickness 2.0 mm (0.079 in)), and the case and bracelet weigh 155 g (5.5 oz).[23]

At the year 2020 Rolex retired the chunky looking "Super Case" by introducing a slightly enlarged watch case styled more to pre-"Super Case" slimmer looking Submariner models which has a depending on the source a 40.5 or 41.0 mm (1.59 or 1.61 in) diameter, a thickness of 12.3 mm (0.48 in) and an anti-reflective coating applied on the inner side of the crystal. Like the watch case, the lug width has also been enlarged to 21.0 mm (0.83 in).[24][25] The No-Date model features a caliber 3230 movement and the Date model features a caliber 3235 movement. Both are COSC certified.[26][27]

Usage of special version

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From 1970 onwards, the French diving company COMEX received a special version of Rolex Submariner 5513 featuring a helium release valve for their saturation divers.[28][29] This version of the Submariner was based on the Sea Dweller designed for the needs of professional divers working at great depths and not the other way around as often claimed. In 1974, the first double-signed dials featuring the Comex logo were introduced followed by changing the reference number to 5514, thus creating an exclusive reference for Comex. These watches were never available to the public.

Production and market value

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Rolex has disclosed that approximately 4 million Submariner watches were produced between 1953 and 2020. Based on current market prices, this equates to an estimated value of $46 billion for this period. Including production from 2020 onwards, Submariner watches' total value could exceed $50 billion. While the luxury watch market has experienced significant growth and volatility, precise figures for annual Rolex production have yet to be discovered. However, it is generally estimated that Rolex produces around one million timepieces annually.[30]

Current models

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Model number Model Material Bezel Movement Production USD MSRP
124060 Submariner 41 mm Steel Black 3230 COSC 2020- $9,100
126610LN Submariner Date 41 mm Steel Black 3235 COSC 2020- $10,250
126610LV Submariner Date 41 mm Steel Green 3235 COSC 2020– $10,800
126613LB Submariner Date 41 mm Steel and Yellow Gold Blue 3235 COSC 2020– $16,150
126613LN Submariner Date 41 mm Steel and Yellow Gold Black 3235 COSC 2020– $16,150
126618LB Submariner Date 41 mm Yellow Gold Blue 3235 COSC 2020– $40,600
126618LN Submariner Date 41 mm Yellow Gold Black 3235 COSC 2020– $40,600
126619LB Submariner Date 41 mm White Gold Blue 3235 COSC 2020– $43,700

All models feature 300-meter (1000 feet) water resistance.

Discontinued models

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Model number In production Note
6200 1955
6204 1953
6205 1953–1957
6536 1954–1958
6536/1 1955–1961
A/6538 1957
6538 1958-1961
5508 1958–1965
5510 1959
5512 1959–1978
5513 1962–1990
5513/17 1972–1978
5514 1972–1978
5517 1972–1978
1680 1966–1981
16800 1977–1987
168000 1987
16610 1988–2010
14060 1990–2002 No date
14060M 2002–2012 Certified chronometer 2007–2012
16610LV 2003–2010 50th anniversary model; Lunette Verte (Green Bezel)
114060 2012–2020 No date
116610LN 2010 - 2020 Lunette Noir (Black Bezel)
116610LV 2010 - 2020 Lunette Verte (Green Bezel)
116619LB 2008 - 2020 Lunette Bleu (Blue Bezel)

Submariner spinoff

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The Rolex Sea-Dweller, developed in 1967 but introduced to the general public in 1971, is a heavier-duty steel version of the Submariner, with a thicker case and crystal, as well as a date feature, minus the date magnifying lens ("cyclops"). The Sea-Dweller incorporates a helium escape valve for use when decompressing and helium is in the gas mixture of a pressurized habitat; this model (ref 16600) has a guaranteed waterproof depth of 1,220 metres (4,000 ft).

The Sea-Dweller was superseded by the DeepSea Sea-Dweller in late 2008,[31] with the last 16600 Sea-Dwellers produced running into the V-series (late 2008). The DeepSea features a 44 mm case that guarantees a depth of 3,900 metres (12,800 ft) (ref. 116660).[32]

In late 2022 Rolex introduced the Deepsea Challenge, a commercial full ocean depth capable watch featuring a 50 mm titanium alloy case.[33][34] The Deepsea Challenge model does not feature a date complication unlike the Deepsea and Sea-Dweller models, which were designed for saturation diving where people have to spend multiple days in pressurized environments.[35] The DeepSea Challenge features a 50 mm case that guarantees a depth of 11,000 metres (36,000 ft)..[36][37]

Model information and characteristics

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  • Waterproof to a maximum depth of 300 metres (1000 ft). Earlier models were thinner and resistant to 200 metres (660 ft).
  • Triplock system waterproof crown, featuring a triple gasket system, identified by three dots on the crown. Screws down tightly onto the case tube and against the Oyster case to provide extra waterproof protection for underwater diving.
  • Case made from solid block of 904L stainless steel since the 1980s, a corrosion-resistant alloy, or gold. The golds (white or yellow) are made in Rolex's foundry.
  • Unidirectional bezel that enables a diver to memorize and follow immersion time. As the bezel only rotates counterclockwise, the dive time can only become "longer" in case of accidental bezel movement, averting the danger of spending too much time underwater.
  • Perpetual rotor in the self-winding wristwatch mechanism, allowing the watch to run continuously, as every slight movement of the wrist winds the movement. The energy generated is stored in the mainspring, allowing the watch to continue to function with no movement for several days. Each movement is a Swiss chronometer officially certified by the COSC.
  • Rolex calendar mechanism that advances to the next date at midnight in a single short rotation.
  • Removable hologram on the caseback, featured until 2007.
  • Recent models of the Submariner and Submariner-Date (late 2008) feature a distinctive "ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX" and serial number engraved on the "inner bezel", also known as the "Rehaut" (French) or "Flange" (English).[38] It also contains a minuscule laser-etched Rolex Crown at the bottom of the crystal in line with 6 o'clock mark.

James Bond

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The Rolex Submariner has appeared in a number of James Bond movies. Sean Connery wore a reference 6538 in his first four movies. In Dr. No and From Russia with Love,[39] the watch was worn with a leather strap. In Goldfinger and Thunderball the strap had been swapped for an undersized NATO type nylon band. (The Ministry of Defence "G10" strap was not commissioned until 1973, and then only in admiralty grey without stripes.)[citation needed] George Lazenby wore a reference 5513 with an oyster bracelet in parts of On Her Majesty's Secret Service;[40] Roger Moore wore reference 5513 with a 7206 riveted bracelet in his first two Bond movies, Live and Let Die and The Man with the Golden Gun. Timothy Dalton is so far the last Bond actor to wear a Rolex in the Bond franchise; he wore a Submariner with a date window in his last Bond film, Licence to Kill. The watch may have been a 16800 or 168000, as the movie was shot in the summer of 1988. From GoldenEye onwards, James Bond wears different versions of the Omega Seamaster.[41][42][43][44]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b GQ magazine GQ: How to Buy a Watch The Classics Buy any one of these signature watches and you can't go wrong 1. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Unveiled in 1953, the Submariner was the first watch water-resistant to 330 feet. Its "combination of unparalleled elegance and spy-friendly versatility" appealed to Sean Connery's James Bond and none other than Che Guevara.
  2. ^ "The History of an Icon – The Rolex Submariner - Chrono24 Magazine". www.chrono24.com. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  3. ^ "Rolex History of Firsts". The Watch Club by SwissWatchExpo. 3 January 2020. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  4. ^ CNN Money Quote: That explains why big recognizable brands like Cartier, Patek Philippe and Rolex rule. They can be thought of, in fact, as portable status symbols, owing to their tradition of quality workmanship.
  5. ^ "China: Breaking out the largest logos". Time Magazine. 21 September 2007. Archived from the original on 23 October 2007.
  6. ^ New York Times Magazine quote: ...became as much a status symbol as a silver Porsche or a gold-faced Rolex watch.
  7. ^ Guardian UK: What is it with men and their watches? quote: It used to be so simple – rich men adorned themselves with that ultimate macho status symbol the Rolex, while the less well-to-do strapped on Timex or Casio.
  8. ^ "The Rolex Submariner". Rolex. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  9. ^ "Discover more on Rolex.com". Rolex. Retrieved 23 July 2019.
  10. ^ In-Depth History of the Rolex Submariner – Part 1, The Early References
  11. ^ "The Rolex Submariner in the 1950s: A Detailed Exploration". The Watch Buyers Group. 28 August 2024. Retrieved 29 August 2024.
  12. ^ "6 Quick Facts About the Rolex Submariner 6200". Bob's Watches. 28 January 2018. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  13. ^ "A Submariner Ref 6200: What's The Deal With These Big Crowns, Anyway?". Hodinkee. 2 March 2011. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  14. ^ "What's So Special About a Rolex Submariner? Glad You Asked". www.bloomberg.com. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  15. ^ "Rolex Lume (Luminous materials) Complete guide". Millenary Watches. 29 February 2020. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  16. ^ In-Depth History of the Rolex Submariner – Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date
  17. ^ Altieri, Paul (19 November 2020). "Rolex 1680 Submariner Ultimate Guide". Bob's Watches. Retrieved 22 March 2023.
  18. ^ In-Depth History of the Rolex Submariner – Part 3, The 5-Digit References
  19. ^ "Rolex - A "new old stock" stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet, accompanied by original Rolex guarantee, presentation box, and hang tags, 2003 | Game Changers New York Monday, December 9, 2019 Lot 3". Phillips. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  20. ^ "Rolex Cerachrom Bezel: A Closer Look". The Watch Club by SwissWatchExpo. 11 September 2020. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  21. ^ In-Depth History of the Rolex Submariner – Part 4, The Modern Ceramic References
  22. ^ "In-Depth: The New Rolex Submariner No-Date Reference 114060 (Live Pics, Specs, Pricing, Video)". Hodinkee. 21 February 2010. Archived from the original on 30 November 2012. Retrieved 10 December 2012.
  23. ^ Battle Of Three Rolex Divers
  24. ^ Smith, Emily (29 July 2021). "Rolex Submariner Guide For Collectors". WatchBox. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  25. ^ The Rolex Submariner Date 126610LV
  26. ^ "2020 Rolex Submariner 124060 41mm No-Date - Review, Live Pics, Price". Monochrome Watches. 31 August 2020. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  27. ^ "Review The Rolex Submariner Date 126610LV". Monochrome Watches. 2 March 2022. Retrieved 24 September 2023.
  28. ^ "COMEX Rolex". www.diving-watch.net. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  29. ^ "A Quick Dive Into the Rolex-Comex Relationship". Montres Publiques. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  30. ^ Hoffman, Andy (13 November 2024). "All the Rolex Submariner Watches Ever Made Are Now Near a Total $50 Billion Market Value". Bloomberg.com. Retrieved 16 November 2024.
  31. ^ Westphalen, Louis (9 November 2017). "Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Sea-Dweller". Hodinkee. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  32. ^ "Oyster Perpetual-Sea-Dweller - Rolex Deepsea" (PDF).
  33. ^ The Record-Breaking Rolex Deepsea Challenge RLX Titanium (And It's Not A Prototype)
  34. ^ The Beast Of The Depths, The Titanium Rolex Deepsea Challenge 126067
  35. ^ Rolex Shatters Water-Resistance Records With Its First Titanium Watch
  36. ^ The Record-Breaking Rolex Deepsea Challenge RLX Titanium (And It's Not A Prototype)
  37. ^ The Beast Of The Depths, The Titanium Rolex Deepsea Challenge 126067
  38. ^ montresuisses.blogspot.com
  39. ^ Grant, Donald (29 June 2006). "Bonding with time". Retrieved 8 May 2014.
  40. ^ Brown, Craig (2012). Hello Goodbye Hello: A Circle of 101 Remarkable Meetings. Simon and Schuster. p. 267. ISBN 9781451684520.
  41. ^ James Bond omegawatches.com
  42. ^ All Omega Seamaster James Bond Watches - An Overview Fratello Watches, 17 August 2015
  43. ^ James Bond's Watches: The Complete Movie Timeline WatchTime, 5 November 2018
  44. ^ Doulton, Rebecca (13 July 2017). "A concise history of James Bond watches".
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